Armscye - Sewing term used to define the armhole.
Backstitch - Strong stitch that doubles back on the last stitch, perfect for securing seams and mending. There are a variety of backstitch styles.
Baste - Temporary long running stitches created by hand or machine to hold fabric in place before the final stitching.
Bias - True bias is a cut made on an angle 45° to the selvage. This direction allows for the most stretch. Bias refers to any line diagonal to the crosswise and lengthwise grains. Most bias pattern pieces are laid on the true bias; the grainline arrow and the pattern’s layout instructions will help you align your pattern pieces.
Binding - Strip of fabric used to cover a seam edge or enclose raw edges.
Bodice - Upper-body portion of a garment that runs from shoulders to waist.
Casing - Folded and stitched “tunnel” that elastics or ties are threaded through.
Dart(s) - Folded and stitched wedges of fabric that shape a garment over curves. Dart point is marked by a dot. Dart legs are lines that come to a stop at the pattern edge.
Double Stitch - Stitch seam along seamline; stitch again 1/4" (6mm) away in seam allowance using a straight stitch OR zigzag stitch; trim close to second stitching OR overlock seam.
Drape - Way a fabric hangs in a garment.
Ease - Difference between body measurements and garment measurements. Also defined as the amount of space in a garment that allows comfortable movement.
Facing - Fabric layer sewn to or folded over to finish an edge. It conceals seam allowances, prevents the edge from stretching, and supports the fabric.
Feed dog(s) - Located beneath the presser foot, these “teeth” help move the fabric under the presser foot. In the raised position, they “feed” the fabric. You can also drop the feed dogs so you can move the fabric freely in any direction.
Finish - Stitch 1/4" (6mm) from raw edge and finish with one of the following: (1) Pink OR (2) Overcast OR (3) turn in along stitching and stitch close to fold OR (4) Overlock.
Gather - Stitch along seamline and again 1/4" (6 mm) away in seam allowance, using long machine stitches. Pull thread ends when adjusting to fit.
Grain - The orientation of the yarns in woven fabric: lengthwise and crosswise. The lengthwise grain is parallel to the selvage; crosswise grain is perpendicular.
Grainline - Long arrow symbol printed on a pattern that corresponds to the grain of the fabric. It is always placed along the lengthwise grain.
Hem - Finished bottom edge of a garment.
Interfacing - Sew-in or fusible fabric used to stabilize the fashion fabrics. Can also add body, reinforce, or shape.
Lining - Fabric (usually silky) that covers the construction details on the inside of the garment.
Muslin - Unbleached cotton fabric. A term used by designers to describe a test garment that checks fit and style.
Presser foot - Holds fabric to the feed dogs on a sewing machine.
Seam - Result of two pieces of fabric stitched together. Seamline is the line that you sew along, usually 5/8 inch in from the cutting line (outermost edge of the pattern piece that you cut along).
Seam allowance - is the distance between the cutting line and the seamline. This allowance is usually hidden inside the garment once it is sewn. In home sewing, the measurement is conventionally 5/8 inch, but may be as small as 1/4 inch or as wide as 1 inch. Seam finish is any technique that finishes the raw edges of a seam.
Selvage - Tightly woven factory edge of fabric that runs parallel to the lengthwise grain.
Serger - Sewing machine that can seam, trim, and overcast raw edges in one step. Also called an “overlock machine.”
Slipstitch - Slide needle through a folded edge, then pick up a thread of underneath fabric.
Staystitch - Stitch 1/8" (3mm) from seamline in seam allowance (usually 1/2" (12mm) from raw edge.
Stitch-in-the-ditch - Stitching inside the “valley” or “groove” of a seam.
Stitch length - Length of a stitch determined by the movement of the feed dogs.
Topstitch - On outside, stitch 1/4" (6mm) from edge, seam allowance (usually 1/2" (13mm) from raw edge. Decorative row of stitches sewn on the right side of a garment.
Yardage - Term used to describe any cut length of fabric. In the U.S., fabric is measured and cut in yards (36-inch intervals).
Zigzag stitch - Commonly used Z-shaped machine stitch sometimes used to finish raw edges or sew a stretch seam
